Description
Product Description




About the inverter
Power supply (4 AC power sockets): 2500W nominal, 5000W peak
·DC input: 12V
· Highest efficiency: 90%
· USB output: 5VDC, max. 3.4A
· Over temperature protection: 65 +/- 5°C
· Working temperature: 0~40°C
· Storage temperature: -10~45°C
· No-load current: 1.5-2A
4 AC power outlets, 1 AC terminal block and a built-in 5V/3.4A USB port.
The EGSCATEE 2500W 12V Pure Sine Wave Inverter is ideal for most off grid systems, whether it’s a van, semi truck, fifth wheel, cabin or any remote location where power is required.
Advanced EGSCATEE pure sine wave technology will protect and extend the life of your electronics and appliances. Make it run smoother, cooler and quieter.
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12VDC inputOptimized for 12 VDC system voltage, it works perfectly with all types of batteries. Thermally controlled high-speed ventilation fans help keep the inverter running at low temperatures. Both terminals are equipped with covers for your safety. |
Efficient and quiet coolingEGSCATEE 2500Watts 12V Pure Sine Wave Inverter is equipped with 1 high-speed ventilation fan for efficient and almost noise-free heat dissipation, keeping the device at a cool operating temperature. |
Low idle power, no power wasteIn the 12V system, the inverter itself has only 0.6v no-load, low energy consumption, 100% work, and supports your home appliances. |
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110/120VAC output4 AC power sockets and 1 built-in 5V/3.4A USB port 1 AC terminal block LED indicators for easy monitoring of operating status |
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Robert Maxwell –
Installed EASY!!!Installed this power inverter four days ago in a motor home to provide clean computer power while driving. It runs perfectly!
remote camper –
First impression–Intended for use in a relatively dust free environment.Edit 9//5/2022Bumped this unit to 4 stars. Here’s why. On separate occasions this week, hooked this up to 2 separate batteries, one a 100 amp hour LiFePo4 and the other a Trojan RV deep cycle 100 ah battery and ran a heavy duty 110 volt 30 year old weed whacker for HOURS around the property in the back of a yard tractor’s trailer. It was hot, well over 100 def F and the inverter performed admirably. The batteries are recharged on solar, so no recurring costs for gasoline, etc. to run the weed whacker. I think that’s pretty stout and the inverter deserves the 4 stars.Other points:Cable connections are secure and well protected. Accepted a 3/8″ terminal lug I prepared for another inverter. The stack-able washers covered the holes well and the terminal covers protected the connection with a plastic nut that keeps the covers in place. A nice touch as most I’ve seen are snap-ons.This inverter is intended for hard wire installation. I will use it temporarily as a portable at a fraction of its rated power with quick disconnects and 18″ of #6 welding cable in a small single battery RV charged by solar. Battery and inverter will be located outside the RV with the inverter used in the same manner as a portable generator. This RV can’t accommodate an inside install of this size and reduces noise.A wired remote is supplied to turn the inverter on and off. No current is drawn from the battery in the OFF position. I measured about 330 milliamps with a DC clamp meter in the ON position with no loads.The internal circuitry can be seen clearly through the generous case venting. This might show prioritizing air cooling over use of heat sinks and this might make it more susceptible to dust intrusion. Long term installation should be fairly dust free. Temperature operating range is said to be 0-40 deg C (32 – 104F). Still to be determined is if exceeding the upper range causes shutdown or where its cooling fans kick in.The manual specifies connection to a **lead acid** battery type. One would wonder why it would be necessary to specify that. The answer lies mainly with LiFePO4 batteries and their BMS systems where large inverters are connected to relatively smaller battery banks. I know of one instance where an attempt to connect >3500w inverter to a 100ah LiFePO4 will cause the BMS to disconnect the battery from the load (inverter). This is because large inverters have an extraordinarily high input capacitance that is seen as a dead short by the battery when initially connecting. Sparks are typical when first connecting certain devices like inverters and some chargers. A spark when you connect the device to the battery is an indication of this momentary dead short. Connecting this inverter to less than a 100 ah LifFePO4 battery could cause the BMS to disconnect. There is an excellent youtube video that explains this phenomenon youtube^com/watch?v=lRAsJOisX2g. (replace the ^ with a .) If for some reason the link is not published with the review, I will see if I can change the reference in a way to get access.If this happens and you do not want to drop some high $$+ for a current surge limiter you might try connecting the inverter to a lead acid battery first bridging from the connectors you want to use for the LiFePO4, then connect the LiFePo4 in parallel, then remove the lead acid battery. Kind of tricky but a way out of the dilemma. Alternatively, try connecting the inverter briefly to a lead acid battery, then quickly reconnect to the LiFePo4. before the capacitors can discharge. I have done this latter move successfully several times and should work anywhere the LiFePo4 disconnect is experienced, but try either method at your own risk. This is not a defect, just the nature of LiFePo4 and BMS.The 115vac plugs are rated at 15 amps and the manufacturer specifies not to exceed 2/3 of the rated 2500 watt power from a single outlet. This works out to just under 14 amps @ 120vac. The appliance you intend to operate should have a rating sticker on it. If the expected load exceeds the 2/3 limit, a separate 120v connection is described in the manual that must be wired by a qualified person. This is a thoughtful detail, but can be a dangerous proposition if you don’t know what you are doing. This connection is live with when the outlets are live. Even though it has a protective cover, it seems exposed and I will probably figure out some way to fully protect it. Best practice would be not to handle it when connected to battery power with the 115 outlets live. If the inverter is hard wired and stowed as intended, this is less of a concern and provides the opportunity for an outlet greater than 15 amps.The manual describes a soft start functionality for certain loads. These would be loads that have a tendency to spark when plugging them into an AC outlet. These items have a power factor of <1 and are seen as a momentary short when plugging them in. Typical examples would be a laptop power brick, perhaps a CPAP power brick and even some phone chargers. To enable the soft start functionality, the inverter should be connected to battery power but switched to the OFF position. Plug in the device to AC outlet, then switch the inverter ON with the power switch or the remote. I do this anyway with any inverter and this is the first time I've seen it actually described.The manual needs work. If you have a background in electrical, you can probably get through it, otherwise, seek out a knowledgeable helper. All things considered, I think 3+ stars is fair for this inverter. A more tolerant operating environment and clearer manual would help bump it to 4.That covers some of the main points of this inverter for now and will update as situation dictates.
Raedwulf –
Most impressive!I have been waiting for this inverter for a while, I have looked at much more expensive ones with more capacity, but price-wise this one was very appealing, and looks like a perfect match for my needs.I didn’t get my hopes up too high until I read some of the other reviews, but I knew that I had to try this EGSCATEE inverter out. The intention was never to put it into an RV or boat, but to run a freezer from my power bank that is solar charged at my well. Until now, the seven truck batteries all wired solidly in parallel have been powering two pumps that lift 275 gallons per day, every day, from an old well, with gravity letting the water flow to a pond out in the back yard that has needed all the help that it can get through this very dry Texas summer.We have a need for refrigeration here, as we sell grass-raised beef and have done so for more than a decade. While the power supply has been very reliable, I have always kept back-up generators and a supply of gas just in case we got a prolonged outage. An ice storm, or a tornado, or even a hurricane could affect us here, so I have tried to plan for alternative power sources.So, this EGSCATEE inverter looked very attractive, hopefully enough capacity to power up a medium-sized freezer. It duly arrived and straight out of the box I was impressed, it is solid, the workmanship is as good as can be expected, and it was easy to set up and get operational.Obviously my well is not under cover, so I wanted some protection for the inverter, but not so much that air flow would be restricted, so I used our doggie crate that spends most of its life doing nothing. With no rain in the foreseeable forecast, it seemed a good time to test the whole thing out.I fitted the cables to the positive and negative terminals on the back of the inverter and ran them out of the crate. I connected the earth/ground cable to the connector on the front (why not put that on the back as well?) and ran that out the back and positioned the crate adjacent to the batteries at the well.I made a solid connection to the positive side of the array (checked voltage, it was steady on 13.5 volts), then noticed a spark as I connected the negative cable, I guess that was a capacitor or two inside the inverter powering up. I sharpened a length of steel rod and cleaned off some of the surface at the other end before tightening a hose clamp there for the earth/ground wire to clip to after I pounded it 18″ into the ground adjacent to the batteries. (see image).While the Amazon page describes a wireless remote control, there was no wireless unit in this package. There is a wired one with a generous length of wire that plugs into the front of the inverter. So I plugged it in and pressed the ‘on’ button. A green light came on so I was content that it was ready to get to work. I turned it off again.I retrieved an older freezer that has not been run for a few weeks, loaded it on my little trailer and positioned it near the inverter. Following instructions for a “soft start”, I plugged it in to the inverter before I turned the inverter on. Content that all was in good shape I turned the inverter on with the wired remote, and I guess I was expecting a fuse to blow or something. That thought was a real one, because there were six spare fuses supplied with the unit…The freezer powered right up and I watched the voltage on the solar panel controller very carefully. It dropped slowly from 13.5 volts to 13.2, then when the two 12 volt well pumps kicked in (they run for a minute and half) the voltage touched 12.9 volts briefly but went back up. The indicator on the solar controller showed that the batteries were full. The freezer compressor never changed its cadence while the two pumps ran, so it wasn’t short of power. A quick check inside the freezer after 30 minutes confirmed that it was working perfectly.The array of solar panels kept up with demand (sunny day) and the seven batteries have plenty of storage capacity, but I suspected that I was running both solar panels and batteries at capacity as I dragged the temp in the freezer internal temp down from what would have been in the high 70’s, early 80’s F.After seven hours, the freezer had plenty of frost around the inside, and everything ran perfectly. The outside temp got to close to 100 F when it peaked in the afternoon, so the freezer compressor ran full-time.The inverter started its cooling fans about 15 minutes after I started it all, running the fans for four seconds every 20 seconds. An hour later the air temp outside was 92 F and the fans were running up to 20 seconds, with a 20 to 30 second break in-between fan events. Batteries remained around the 13 to 13.2 volt mark. Once the air temp was around 100, the inverter fans would run for 25 to 30 seconds, with a gap of the same before they kicked in again. The inverter worked perfectly, although I have to suggest that the noise of the fans could well be intrusive, dependent on where this inverter is mounted in an RV or boat. It is not an issue to me, but it would be if I had that fan noise in an enclosed space that I was sharing with it.I checked it as the sun was setting and decided to turn it all off as the batteries were starting to run down a little (12.8 volts) with the freezer compressor running full time, and there was limited solar recharge happening. The inverter is definitely well up to the task, but my batteries and solar array might need a little beefing up to handle running it overnight.I’m seriously impressed with this inverter. Recommended!
MSC –
Very capable inverter. Not so great manualSo I don’t necessarily need a manual for toothpicks or a fan or even wireless earbuds. But for a 2500 W power inverter it might be a good idea. There’s apparently a lot of idiosyncrasies when dealing with these and it would be nice to know. This manual was written by engineers for engineers and apparently engineers for him English is not the primary language. You’re gonna want to use a lot of Google before you start using this. This deficit almost caused me to knock off another star but because the unit is so capable, I kept the rating.This thing a solid and it works well. It seems to stay fairly cool to as the build would indicate they made it with cooling to be a priority. This is a good quality in a power inverter. I didn’t have anything fancy. it was connected to the 12 V battery in a motorhome. It’s powered 2 CPAP units and the fan all night long without any issues whatsoever. We powered a refrigerator, hey small air conditioner and an icemaker during the day. I think the draw was about 700 W maybe.I think that there’s absolutely no vampiric current when the inverter is switched off which is nice.It was clearly designed to be permanently hardwired in but you can set up some quick disconnects if you want to move it around some and that’s what we do. I don’t think we’ve stretched this to its capacity by any means. But I did power a microwave with it to make popcorn and everyone is still here. So this thing can put out power when and if it you need it.I’m gonna try permanently installing it into a solar installation and see what we get out of that. It could be a nice permanent source of cheap power.